Our Eastern Oregon trip (part I)

 

A few weeks ago we went on our first backpacking trip of the season, to Eastern Oregon. Normally we wouldn't go so early in the year, but Melina's preschool was on break so it was a good time. The weather turned out to be great (it was over 100 there a week later) and, apart from the ticks, a good time was had by all. Here's the trip report I wrote while we were on vacation.

Day I: Portland to Baker City

A five-hour drive broken up by a sub sandwich in the Dalles. Melina keeps up random conversation ("Is that boat sinking? Why are we going to the hotel this way? Is the hotel invisible?"). Jeff tries to explain the huge wind turbines we pass in the Eastern gorge. "Where did it go, on a big pole? Just like the car? Did it go up in the air? Is that how it's supposed to be, like that?"

Baker City: arrive at the Geiser Grand Hotel at 6:20. Motorcycle rally! Hundreds of Harleys and other motorcycles lined up in rows in the streets around the hotel. In the front, a stage with HELL'S CANYON RALLY in big letters, and a cheering crowd in black leather and skimpy teeshirts, horned helmets, skin-tight lace, and black German-style helmets. They're raffling off two pistols! Behind the hotel, a beer garden with another set of loudspeakers.

At first, we are freaked. When I made the reservation yesterday there was no mention of a biker rally. The lady at the desk tells us we can't get a refund because we made the reservation yesterday; I tell her we didn't know what we were getting into. We go up to see the room. The hotel is beautiful, a newly renovated turn-of-the-century (or earlier) gem with a second floor gallery looking down into the dining room; above, a stained glass ceiling. On the third floor, there are ghosts, but we get a room on the second floor that is well soundproofed, large and comfortable. After settling in (the staff is relieved) we go for a turn outside, checking out the characters and the bikes. Melina is a little scared of the motorcycles at first, but soon warms up. I want to take her photo with one of the scarier-looking bikes but I'm afraid of her tipping it over, with dire consequences. Actually, though, the crowd is well-mannered, mostly middle-aged couples with a few rough edges. Dinner is hot dogs and sauerkraut at a corner soda fountain. Melina is now completely wound up; as I write this I'm in the smoky library waiting for the all's-clear from Jeff, who is putting her to bed.

The next day: the night was not so bad. The stage behind the hotel closed around 11:00. People in the bar talked loudly until late, and smoke filtered in under the door, but the circumstances are unusual. Melina slept until 9:30-10:00 on the double bed; no major traumas. In the morning we packed and repacked and ate breakfast at Mad Matilda's coffeehouse. Excellent food and coffee!